Sitting at the bar at Persimmon, marveling at the petite chanterelle on my fork, I realized why I was having such a good dinner. Persimmon cultivates an aura of calm, which cannot be said for all restaurants of its caliber. Some high-end restaurants deliver on the food but have a nervous temperament. An unfussy and measured dining experience helps me be mindful about what I am eating. At Persimmon, every bite is sure to be something worth my attention.
You may recognize 99 Hope Street as the former home of Rue de L’Espoir. Designer Libby Slader’s renovation created a brighter, more formal feel. Persimmon owners Champe and Lisa Speidel moved their iconic Rhode Island restaurant to Providence this spring after a successful decade in Bristol that included several James Beard nominations and plenty of local admirers. The move allowed them to reach more visitors with a central location, expand their seating capacity and broaden their menu.
Persimmon’s menu, as you would expect, changes seasonally, and our visit caught the beginning of the fall selections. The recent seasonal change was evident as soon as we saw the cocktail list. Though I was not eager to say goodbye to summer, let alone fall, I tried the Winter is Coming, a tall drink with the bitterness of St. George Bruto Americano tempered by cassis and soda, boldened by smooth silver rum. It was a refreshing, not-too-sweet aperitif. My husband had the headier Miss American Pie, a whiskey-based cocktail with applejack and yellow chartreuse.
Our dish of Slow Cooked Octopus had white beans, chorizo and herbs in a deeply flavored broth. The Penne may have looked ordinary, but its confit cherry tomatoes were bursting with end-of-summer sweetness.
Another favorite dish was the Pan Seared Duck Breast. The Canadian chanterelles and wild huckleberries were like an autumn walk in the forest.
Apparently, Persimmon brought most of their staff along for the move. The well-trained, attentive staff made a great impression, paying as much attention to every diner as the kitchen pays to each dish.
The dessert list sent us into a tizzy, so we ordered four dishes. First, Caramelized Popcorn with sweet corn ice cream. My husband teases me about my affinity for all things corn, so he kindly let me have more than my half. How could we pass up the Peanut Butter and Concord Grape S’more’? I wondered whether it would be a bit much to combine the two childhood flavor combinations – peanut butter and jelly and s’mores – but it worked. The Dark Chocolate Semi freddo were a little hard to spear, but we managed to avoid flinging any across the room. Last, the Colston-Basset Stilton was served with an exemplary toasted raisin and walnut bread.
Providence may be full of great restaurants, but there’s plenty of room for this celebrated Rhode Island star in the capital city.
Persimmon
99 Hope Street
432-7422
PersimmonRI.com
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