Experience: In Johnston, Bar’Lino’s Pizza is Bar None The Best

Northern Rhody’s spot for Southern Italian cuisine and delicious pies

Photo courtesy of Bar’Lino Ristorante

Italian mains and apps from Bar’Lino

Photos courtesy of Bar’Lino Ristorante

Grandma Pizza

Photos courtesy of Bar’Lino Ristorante

Posted Wednesday, January 1, 2025 9:00 am

Cuisine: Authentic Italian with innovative twists

Atmosphere: Sophisticated neighborhood pizzeria

Must-Try Items

Burrata ($16): Mozzarella with creamy curd center, heirloom cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and EVOO

Grandma Pizza – Pepperoni MVP ($24): Pepperoni, pickled jalapeño, and hot honey

Mezze Rigatoni Pink Vodka Sauce ($20): San Marzano tomatoes, cream, Pecorino Romano, and chili

By Jenny Currier Shand

Before even opening their doors in fall of 2023, the Bar’Lino team was busy perfecting their pizza recipe. For three months prior, they tested thousands of versions and experimented with 20-30 pies daily until they found a combination of Neapolitan and New Haven styles that is distinctly their own – yet trending with some of the best in the world – right in the heart of Johnston.

So it’s fitting that the first thing I noticed – aside from ample parking, which is always exciting – was the smell of pizza. It was just a whiff, but it got my mouth watering even before entering the beautiful, open space with exposed brick walls and modern light fixtures that are both elegant and funky. It felt like a place that could easily double as a date spot and a hangout for friends. Guided by the culinary expertise of Italian executive chef Davide Negri, and owned by the DeQuattro Restaurant Group (known for Federal Hill favorites like Il Massimo and Pane E Vino), Bar’Lino brings a full menu of authentic Italian fare to northern Rhode Island.

This culinary outing began with a classic, refreshing Aperol Spritz, which came garnished with an orange slice – the only thing missing was warm weather and people-watching on the piazza. My husband, a self-proclaimed coffee snob, instantly commented on the smooth flavor of his cup of hot coffee.

The Sunday menu boasted of delicious brunch options, like Short Rib Hash and pancakes with whipped ricotta, but I went straight to the lunch menu and their 15 different pizza offerings (not to mention, they have an entirely gluten-free menu!). We ordered the Burrata to start – a dish I always love, but this was next level. The creamy center was luxurious, and I could taste the sunshine in the cherry tomatoes. The ring of pesto garnish and generous drizzle of Italian olive oil created a flavor bomb. It was my 10-month-old son’s first burrata, and he ate it the way we all wish we could – face first. I also tried the Mezze Rigatoni Pink Vodka Sauce with sausage, which hit all the right notes, with Parmesan countering the subtle chili spice.

Next came the much-anticipated star of the meal – the pizza. I typically convince my husband to order Neapolitan style with its thin, bubbly crust, but because he has been craving a thick-crust pizza since moving to Rhode Island, I decided to indulge him with Grandma’s Pizza, a Sicilian-style square pizza with thick, airy dough. We went with Pepperoni MVP, described by the manager as having a “bit of a kick” from jalapeños and hot honey.

Arguably more than a “little” kick to my palate, this pie was an eye-popping, lip-numbing experience, in the best possible way. I’m convinced that the scientists who found the bliss point of sweet and salty foods were consulted on the spice level because we could not stop eating this pizza – and it was huge. Despite our inability for self-control, we still took home leftovers.

In a state that is famous for its Italian food, Bar’Lino stands out for its immaculate ingredients and attention to detail. Whether you crave the comforts of pasta, the exquisite artistry of Southern Italian cuisine, or the perfect pizza, Bar’Lino has something for everyone.