Thanks to my editorial role here at the magazine, I’ve become somewhat of a walking, talking Rhode Island travel guide/encyclopedia. So when planning an itinerary for my sister’s recent visit from New Jersey, I set the bar high, aiming to introduce her to parts of the Ocean State she may not have yet experienced. I decided we would kick-off our tour de force with lunch at Sakonnet Vineyard in Little Compton, knowing full well that my sister doesn’t drink much. But the breathtaking location paired with modifications implemented by married winemakers James Davids and Marissa Stashenko – who took over management duties last year – have resulted in the state’s oldest vineyard revitalized with new offerings, varietals, and events, as it approaches its golden anniversary this month.
What’s new at Sakonnet Vineyard is actually what’s old, at the property which spans 169 acres. Still owned by jewelry designer and entrepreneur Carolyn Rafaelian, the name has returned simply to Sakonnet Vineyard, and Davids has reintroduced time-honored farming practices over technology – both storied and sustainable – aimed at making wines without additives, with flavors that connect to the land, or terroir, and give each pour a distinctive sense of place. During a vineyard tour with Davids, Stashenko, and my sister, this is explained, which I liken to tasting honey and being able to detect whether it’s collected from clover or wildflowers, or even digging further, its location.
Our reservation is for noon and I pad our drive with extra time to enjoy the pastoral beauty of Route 77, heading south. We pass Tiverton Four Corners and multiple farm stands, and my sister always marvels at the stone walls. Before long, a cornflower-blue sign and American flag signal our turn on Sakonnet Vineyards Road, and we slowly motor along the curved trail, spotting one of Rafaelian’s collected animal statues, before parking. The natural beauty all around is wonderfully distracting as we walk to the main building – the cloudy pale sky serving as a foil to the verdant grass and clusters of bright wildflowers.
Once inside the cavernous main area where wine and merchandise are for sale, I spy a pile of flopsy golden cookies slumped beneath the glass of a dessert stand and make a mental note. Our server leads us to a table in the tasting room beneath posters of the vineyard, past the central bar helmed by the mustachioed Matt Gant. The kitchen is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to “about” 7pm, and for a Thursday lunch, it’s not empty. Looking over the menu of boards, bites, salads, sweets, and plates, my eyes land on the farmhouse clam chowder. Aromatic, creamy, and chunky, I declare on the spot that it’s a new favorite. It arrived with slices of crusty bread, perfect for sopping up every last drop. My “plate” is the lobster salad roll, a seasonal offering so plentiful with lightly dressed meat over buttery lettuce, I decided to fork it, digging into it like a lazyman’s lobster. My sister opts for the San Marzano flatbread – a beautiful oblong canvas of red sauce and mozzarella, topped with whipped ricotta and drizzled with green basil oil – which she enjoys.
Knowing this article would appear in October, Chef John Crosby sends some menu mainstays our way. We share the grilled chicken sandwich – six ounces of breast meat marinated in white wine, with confit garlic aioli adding a flavorful twist, plus lettuce, tomato, and red onion, on a baguette. We also nibble on pulled pork tacos; unbeknownst to me, these are my sister’s favorite, and she is impressed. Pickled red onions and wide cilantro leaves lend bright zest. And yes, we each enjoyed a scrumptious white macadamia nut cookie for dessert (something I would’ve skipped had there been oatmeal raisin, but am glad how the cookie crumbled).
And of course, we drink wine. I had to order a glass of Eye of the Storm rosé; it was what we served at my wedding after tasting it on a visit to the vineyard with my then-fiance many moons ago. I’m always drawn to floral aromatics, especially when cherry and rhubarb are in the mix. My favorite sip of the day is the sauvignon blanc, refreshing and tasty with subtle flavors of grapefruit and lemongrass followed by a “salty minerality,” served in a commemorative anniversary glass. Flights of three and five wines are available, along with soft drinks like Del’s Lemonade, Yacht Club Soda, and Granny Squibb Iced Tea for teetotalers. A beautiful way to spend an afternoon replete with coastal breezes and uniquely Ocean State flavors.
162 West Main Road, Little Compton
October 11 & 12: A weekend of fun is planned to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Sakonnet Vineyard. Saturday’s agenda includes live music, a walking tour of the vineyard and scavenger hunt, old-fashioned outdoor field day fun, a pumpkin patch, wine tastings, and food vendors. Sunday features a Harvest Market in collaboration with Tiverton Farmers Market with 60–70 local vendors, makers, and growers. Educational sessions and demos led by regional experts in regenerative farming, beekeeping, and winemaking. Learn more at SakonnetWine.com/events
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