In the Kitchen: The Humble Origins of Café Modesto

On the east side of the Providence River, you’ll find streets buzzing with pedestrian activity, especially on days when the silver awning of the Café Modesto coffee truck is up, signaling that Ediz Monzón is aproned and ready to serve a steaming hot cup of specialty coffee through the window. Originally from Guatemala, Monzón came to the US in 1991 and built his career in the restaurant business. In 2020, with his wife Isabel Alvarado, their longtime shared dream of serving coffee from their home country – “the land of eternal spring, where volcanoes, mountains and lakes gather together” – was put into motion.

Often parked on South Water Street, the silver truck which translates to “humble coffee,” has become a welcoming spot for coffee lovers, especially Brown University, JWU, and RISD students. “We really enjoy connecting with the students who visit us, since many of them are far from home, which we relate to deeply,” says Monzón. “I enjoy getting to know the community. For me, the key is serving everyone the way they’d like to be treated.”

Prior to opening Café Modesto, Monzón spent months in Guatemala to study all things coffee through specialized courses. He connected with producers in the country including Chica Bean in Santa Lucia Milpas Altas, a roasted-at-origin women-owned coffee company who provide a custom blend for the truck’s espresso. Another source is Cerro Verde Café, a fourth generation coffee-growing family of women. Based in the Acatenango region, known as La Tierra del Cafe or land of coffee, Monzón uses their coffee as his daily go-to brew.

Popular offerings at the truck include beverages like the café bombon and big brother. The former is a classic Spanish coffee (and the sweet caffeinated treat you didn’t know you needed) traditionally served hot and made of equal parts espresso and condensed milk; the latter is that but with extra coffee, which can be  served over ice if preferred. “Because the café bombon is smaller – about the size of an espresso shot – someone once said it was good but they wanted something bigger. That’s how the big brother drink was born,” Monzón says with a smile.

Although Café Modesto doesn’t serve meals, it does offer sweet Guatemalan baked goods sourced from Emmanuel’s Bakery and Taqueria in Cranston and Panaderia El Quetzal in Providence, to complement your coffee. Sweet treats like Magdalenas – fluffy poundcakes with hints of orange and vanilla – and champurrados – crispy toasted shortbread-like cookies topped with sesame seeds, are offered along with donuts from Glaze N Daze in Johnston.

While Monzón’s coffee truck is out most weekdays and weekends, they also cater private gatherings and pop-up events across the state. Monzón reflects, “I have always loved coffee and felt it was my passion, and I’d long dreamed of finding a way to share the Guatemalan coffee I knew with the world.” Follow on Instagram for updates at @cafemodestoprovidence.