I'm not ashamed to admit that I've biked to Providence and back on the East Bay Bike path just to earn lunch at Eli's Kitchen in Warren. There's lots of variety on the menu and there are certainly lighter options, but I often end up with my pal the Cubano, the juices of citrus and oregano braised pork on my chin, a full stomach and a dumb smile. That's mission accomplished for a restaurant doing comfort food. It's no surprise that after opening in May 2014, Eli's has fit so convincingly into its spot in the center of Warren that now it's hard to imagine the town without it. I talked to head chef and owner Eli Dunn about the business of comforting.
Where does your love of comfort food come from?
I think my love of comfort food can be traced back to the simple yet incredibly delicious meals my mother used to make for our family when we all lived under the same roof. She had a way of making a humble meatloaf exquisitely satisfying using nothing but a few basic pantry staples. I found great comfort in her food and the experience of eating together as a family. I miss those days.
Tell me about some of your regulars.
We have the best regulars on the planet. We've become a sort of "family" restaurant, which is an unexpected but wonderful surprise. I love that our guests trust my food enough to bring their kids to Eli's. As a new parent myself, I know how difficult it is to go out and find food that both you and your children will enjoy. We launched a children's menu last year and it's been a great success. We make gluten free chicken nuggets, homemade pizza, kid size burgers, quesadillas. I've had more than one tiny guest tell me that my kid burger was "the best they've ever had." Those are my favorite compliments.
What have been your fondest memories of your time at Eli's thus far.
I'll never forget making buttermilk biscuits one Sunday morning in early June 2014 and getting a phone call from my wife to tell me she was pregnant. That was a special moment for me.
Eli’s Kitchen
40 Market Street, Warren
401-245-1809
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