Experience: Newport’s Jo’s American Bistro

When it comes to trying a new restaurant, I look for those that have created a buzz, either online or within its neighborhood. Jo’s American Bistro is the perfect example. Though Jo’s has been a Newport staple for some time now – originally founded by Joann Carlson in 2013 – it was recently reopened under the local Heritage Restaurant Group, and has been gaining increased attention for its bold flavors and creative combinations, including a nod from CNN. With a culinary team led by Chef Brian Ruffner, a Culinary Institute of America alum, Jo’s applies classic French and Italian culinary techniques to New England classics… and I’m here for it.

I’ll cut to the chase: there was not a menu item I didn’t enjoy. This cozy fine dining spot puts contemporary spins on beloved dishes and family recipes. From a flatbread pizza to a hearty dish of pasta, the flavor profiles never disappointed. At its core, Jo’s takes classic dishes, such as fried chicken or seared scallops, and redesigns them, adding twists and upping the ante. There are lots of plates that are classically prepared with traditional accompaniments: pan-roasted cod with fennel and romesco sauce, a roasted half chicken with cheddar mashed potatoes and pan jus, seared scallops, steak frites, and burgers. Jo’s fish and chips are a family recipe, passed down for five generations, demonstrating that this talent for taste is deeply rooted in their lineage.

But then, Jo’s kitchen team throws you a delightful curveball: the Point Judith calamari, for example, takes perfectly cooked (read: non-chewy) calamari and pairs it with a Thai chili aioli, taking a New England fave into international waters. The duck and lobster quesadilla marries two unlikely bedfellows to great success, while the portobello burger is marinated in gochujang and topped with house-made kimchi. The result is a menu that welcomes traditionalists and experimentalists alike and satisfies either craving.

Jo’s is a bistro in the truest sense: cozy, pared down, simple but not simplistic. There’s a small space for outdoor seating, and you can imagine that’s ideal for busy fall days when tourists still linger. It’s even better inside for locals in the shoulder season months when the agenda calls for warmth and intimacy. Service is friendly and familiar, and, considering its location on bustling Memorial Boulevard, prices are very reasonable. There’s a kid’s menu, and ample gluten-free options.

Don’t be surprised if Chef Ruffner visits your table with a small suggestion to elevate your experience… for instance, presenting a fried lemon wedge for the calamari that kicked the dish up a notch. He explains to another table that his goal is to marry bold flavor with balance in each of his dishes, and to say he’s succeeded is an understatement. I was consistently impressed by each dish I tried, and whether you are a local or just visiting, Jo’s American Bistro is an absolute must-try. 24 Memorial Boulevard, Newport