Lennon and McCartney. Woodward and Bernstein. Brady and Gronkowski. Elkhay and Ramos. You know, those talented twosomes who have collaborated to create something greater – more emotional, impactful, exciting – than they could have alone.
To wit: On a recent visit to the new 10 Prime Seafood in Providence, an appetizer called Lobster Acting Like Escargot is delivered to our table. I love a snazzily-named menu item. It heightens curiosity and builds expectations. In another chef’s hands, this dish might disappoint – too overworked, excessive accoutrements. But tender lobster, bathed in sweet, fatty butter, sprinkled with sea salt, and topped with puff pastry, served in a stoneware escargot plate… well, this works marvelously on both visual and palatable levels.
This dish, and all the others on this well-balanced, intriguing menu, is credited to Jules Ramos. He, along with partner/owner John Elkhay, are a pair of renown veterans – together on and off since 1987 – of the Providence restaurant scene. Under the moniker of the Chow Fun Food Group, Elkhay’s properties include 10 Prime Steak and Sushi, Harry’s Bar and Burger, Xaco Taco, and now, 10 Prime Seafood. Ramos has led brigades at Café Nuovo, Mill’s Tavern, and XO Café, among others. They are a complementary team in the purest form. Ramos brings his cooking chops while Elkhay brings the sexy and the whimsy to this new venture, opened last November in the space formerly known as Res,
and Bravo before that.
“It’s a reunion, a true full-circle moment for me in my career,” says Elkhay, who is also working with several members of his family at the new 10. The space is provocative but comfortable. Large windows framing the long bar look out on Empire Street, and in the dining room, Trinity Rep. The interior features alluring details: a mermaid, perched in the corner, watches guests’ every move; jellyfish-like lighting fixtures hang unassumingly from the ceiling; an octopus mural occupies a whole wall. But the most important and pleasing art is on the table. “Every ingredient, every menu item, every spoon, fork, apron, and glass matters. There is no aspect of 10 Prime Seafood that does not have my full attention
and focus,” Elkhay says.
As a guest, you feel that. First-course options are impressive but not intimidating – a key theme on all Elkhay’s menus – encouraging exploration. Alongside shellfish selections (which are mostly local), there’s a traditional caviar service with potato chips and crème fraiche, but there’s also a tongue-in-cheek version served with chicken nuggets. In addition to the lobster, we order the salmon crispy rice with avocado, Fresno peppers, and coconut aminos. I’m not one who welcomes the idea of raw anything, but I trust the kitchen, and this is a game changer. The salmon is so fresh and tender I imagine it was plucked from the waters hours ago. The peppers, avocado, and coconut seasoning add a little brightness and sweetness.
We order cocktails and when asked about vodka preference, our waiter, Johnny Tarrats, who’s worked for Elkhay for some 20 years, tells us 10 has its own corn-based, gluten-free vodka, crafted nearby by ISCO Spirits. The wine and spirits list is manageably sized and offers a balanced selection of reds, whites, and sparkling wines that are reasonably priced. There’s a nice selection of zero-proof cocktails as well.
For entrees, we choose local dayboat scallops with haricots verts almondine and a tarragon-heavy chimichurri that gives the dish depth and savoriness in a way that, say, a lemony sauce couldn’t achieve. The scallops – six of them – are plump and perfectly cooked, the dish easily big enough for two. For a side dish, the Oh Those Potatoes beckon – a neat rectangular stack of thinly sliced potatoes, pressed and fried and topped with a creamy brie fondue and freshly chopped herbs. Oh, those potatoes! We also choose the filet mignon topped with a cacio e pepe tortelloni. It comes exactly as ordered, a perfect, tender medium-rare. The tortellini is three bites of creamy richness. The menu notes this dish is “served on Versace.” Does a medium-rare filet taste better when served on a $400 turquoise and gold Italian designer plate? Of course not. But I appreciate the beauty of it, and it creates a memory. That’s typical
Elkhay modus operandi.
We move to the festive bar for a final cocktail and are presented with a dessert tray – five house-made, single servings such as a raspberry custard tart, crème brûlée, and an apple pie that is Elkhay’s mother’s recipe. We’re joined briefly by Ramos, who seems content and comfortable in this space, not frantic like so many chefs, in the middle of service, can be. He’s happy to be back in this partnership and is proud to “offer guests beautiful, authentic food prepared the way it should be, and in an elevated, showstopping environment.” He can definitely check that box. We skip dessert, too full from dinner. But that apple pie is on my list for next time. It would look fabulous on an Hermès dessert plate. Just saying.
Some legendary twosomes only last a short time. Others thrive, continuing to make magic wherever their talents bring them. Let’s hope the rolling stones who are Elkhay and Ramos continue to gather no moss.
123 Empire Street
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