Over the years, many Rhode Islanders have established a weekend routine of waking up and heading to one of the 30-plus farmers markets throughout the state, from the streets of Pawtucket to the fields of South County. What’s your pleasure? The most uniquely shaped heirloom tomato, a loaf of fresh sourdough, or just a coffee and a stroll? Whatever it is, supporting local farmers is what we’re all here for.
For longtime chef and Farm Fresh RI Program Director Sean Kontos, the phrase “farm to table” has long been part of his vernacular. But his own story is quite literally “farm fresh.” From the New Hampshire seacoast to Nantucket and Providence, Kontos has focused on locally sourced seasonal cooking, as well as nose-to-tail butchery. Once the head chef of Providence’s Local 121, Kontos’ interest in food began when he spent his 15th summer working on a farm in New Hampshire. He says, “It was really eye-opening in a lot of ways to see the amount of work it took to get food on your plate.”
Growing up half Greek, Kontos was surrounded by family cooks and large gatherings that helped shape his perspective on food. His time as a line cook in high school led him to study culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University. From there, Kontos let the wind carry him across New England and Europe before finding his way back to Rhode Island, working in the restaurant industry again. In time, he realized it was not his long-term path and began volunteering and working with Farm Fresh RI in search of something more meaningful.
Today, Kontos has found a different way to put his kitchen experience to use through Harvest Kitchen, where food is as much about teaching as it is about supporting farmers. A culinary job training program for youth ages 16 to 19, it is supported by Farm Fresh RI and the state Department of Children, Youth and Families. Kontos says, “I love working with the kids. I learn a lot from them, and it’s rewarding to get to teach them skills they’re going to use in their lives, whether they work in a restaurant or are cooking at home for someone.”
In 2016, the Harvest Kitchen Cafe opened, giving kids the opportunity to work in a real food service environment while continuing to develop their skills. After nine years at its original location in Pawtucket, Kontos and the Harvest Kitchen team relocated the café to Farm Fresh’s headquarters in Providence this past April.
Although Kontos is not cooking in the kitchen as much these days, he continues to support students, create menu plans, and coordinate with nearby farmers. Looking ahead, he hopes to see Harvest Kitchen continue to grow. “I do so much more than I thought I could do, and all of those applied skills from working in hospitality have helped me along the way,” he says. “I think growing the café and the catering program is ultimately the goal.”
Open for lunch, the café serves seasonal dishes, with October bringing more soups and fall-inspired sandwiches, as well as breakfast during the late-fall and early-winter farmers markets. Seasonal offerings continue into November with Farm Fresh’s Thanksgiving box, featuring local produce and holiday staples. Learn more at FarmFreshRI.org
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