The making of soppressata – affectionately nicknamed “soupy” – is more than just a culinary process; it’s a family event and a vital community tradition. This act, often a “wordless dance” of sharp elbows, nods, and good-natured glares, is interwoven with stories, laughter, frustration, and memories, creating a rich camaraderie that is the true secret ingredient. For many, making this salume is synonymous with Westerly itself, deeply connecting Italian-Americans to the Old World.
Westerly is known for its strong communal bond, particularly within the Italian-American population, where shared surnames and the mention of making “soupy” easily forge immediate connections. Lou Toscano, a local resident, defines soupy as “a cured pork sausage, like a spicier version of pepperoni. “Originating in southern Italy, soppressata was traditionally prepared during the colder months. When Italian immigrants arrived in Westerly to work in nearby quarries, they brought this culinary legacy with them. The sausage requires about seven weeks to cure, and historically, families would enjoy their first cured sticks as part of their Easter celebration, often served with eggs and frittata.
Toscano continues this legacy today, gathering his entire family – his wife and son, a nephew, and an uncle – for an all-morning affair of mixing meat, stuffing casings, and hanging the links to cure in his basement. The process begins with his favorite step: frying a small patty of the meat and eating it with “good Italian bread” to check the spice level, determining whether more paprika, black pepper, or other seasoning is needed.
Experienced chefs and Italians often develop a “feel” for spices, a sense Toscano’s grandmother and father possessed. He recalls a failed attempt in his first year of making soupy, where he tried to rely on this innate sense, only to use far too much salt and ruin the entire batch. Since then, he faithfully follows his grandmother’s handwritten recipe card, and years of mastery have granted him the same coveted “feel.”
“This has been going on forever and ever here. I’ve never heard of any other place in New England that keeps up this tradition,” Toscano explains. While it was once “literally a strictly Italian tradition,” he notes that “as time goes on, a lot of people are making it themselves; it’s become a community tradition,” now extending beyond Italians to include all Westerlians and those from surrounding areas.
Lucky ticket holders will get to attend SoupyFest III at The United Theatre on April 11. The now-annual celebration which sold out instantly, will feature tastings, live music, and a celebrity-judged contest hosted by Steve Schirripa (The Sopranos) to crown the region’s best family-made soupy. This is a general admission, standing festival with food stations, presentations, and a cash bar. For lead-up events and more, visit UnitedTheatre.org
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