In the Kitchen: Jennifer Backman Plates Seasonal Specialities at Providence’s Waterman Grille The riverfront restaurant’s new executive chef embraces colorful crops

Purple asparagus, vibrant young strawberries, and all shades of local radishes are just a few of the spoils Jennifer Backman, the new executive chef of the Waterman Grille in Providence, is bringing to the table. And it isn’t her first time plating colorful dishes in Rhode Island kitchens, where she’s spent over 20 years climbing the ranks. “Growing up, I’d always loved cooking,” says Backman. “Once I realized that I could make this a career, I made sure to get my foot through the door as soon as possible.”

After graduating from Johnson & Wales University’s culinary program, Backman joined Newport’s Castle Hill Inn as a line cook and sous chef. Through her hard work, she was quickly promoted to executive sous chef. She saw her first opportunity to lead the charge when she joined Ocean House Management Group, where she oversaw numerous restaurants, including COAST, Weekapaug Inn, Spicer Mansion, and the former Seasons at the Ocean House. In 2018, she became the executive chef at The Mooring in Newport, which, along with Waterman Grille, is part of the Newport Restaurant Group.

While each restaurant provides its own unique experience, Backman has always focused on her specialty: embracing the Ocean State’s delicious seasonality. When developing new menus for each restaurant, she focuses on spotlighting local harvests. “I always bring a farm-to-table approach in everything I do,” says Backman. “I’m extremely passionate about vegetables and what they bring to the dish. I think they’re just as important to the centerpiece, if not more.”

In her new role with Waterman Grille, Backman is excited to evolve the menu around what’s in season. Whether it’s cold-weather root vegetables or the bounties of New England summers, availability changes throughout the year, so Backman works closely with over a dozen local farms to curate what’s cooking.

“Having lived in Rhode Island for over half of my life, I’m very attuned with the seasons. I know when it’s heirloom tomato season or when strawberries are in bloom. I take a lot of inspiration from that,” shares Backman. The new menu will rotate every six weeks or so, offering a selection that celebrates the current range of produce. Each evening will also offer a featured dish with limited produce that may only be available that week. “We want our dishes to be a realistic inflection of the season.”

While the flavors may change, Backman aims to provide a consistently cozy, lively atmosphere throughout the year. The open-kitchen restaurant gives visitors a glimpse of their food being prepared while the wood-fire stove offers a dose of tranquility. “It’s such a warm and inviting space. We want that reflected in our food. There will be dishes on the menu that were created to bring people back to a comfortable state of mind or memory,” says Backman. “I’m hopeful that my food will have little unexpected surprises in every dish, too.”

Waterman Grille

4 Richmond Square, Providence

521-9229 • WatermanGrille.com