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Experience: The Haversham Tavern in Westerly

New England comfort foods where everybody learns your name

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My reservation for lunch at The Haversham Tavern falls on a bitterly cold afternoon. My plus-one had to cancel but I’m looking forward to dining solo without distraction; after all I’ve got my reviewer hat on and my notepad ready. As I approach the property set above Post Road on 14 acres, aside from cleared paths and driveways, it’s completely blanketed in snow. The cedar shake exteriors of both the tavern and house-turned-event space next door make it all feel like it’s Christmastime, even though we’re smack-dab into January.

I’m seated at a table in the large dining room. The vibe is comfortable and familial; canning jar drinking glasses and sky blue walls paired with white wainscoting lend cottage style, while a Celtics sign on the wooden mantle of the stonewall fireplace, says family room. That welcoming atmosphere continues with the staff, especially server Annie Laudone, who is amiable and seems to know everyone in the room, as evidenced by her wishing a patron good luck at the dentist as they put on their coat. Laudone tells me about the history of the tavern, which was built in the 1800s and has had many lives. Recently acquired by the Bellone family, who specialize in hospitality, it’s received a nice refresh.

I aim to order a range of dishes representative of what they serve. Just me at the round wooden table that seats six, the parade of plates delivered to me is a bit of a spectacle. My plan is to sample bites and take the rest home for the fam. Cocktails like the blueberry-pomegranate martini sound appealing, but I decide to pass, and go directly to starting with a bowl of lobster bisque. Served in a round glazed crock with a packet of Westminster Bakers oyster crackers (my own personal litmus test for restaurants), it’s luxurious. Topped with chunks of Maine lobster, the soup is perfectly seasoned and oh-so satisfying. I could have stopped there, but I was on the beat!

Laudone suggests the Sooner Sliders, a trio of petite Oklahoma-style smash burgers with grilled onions, American cheese, and Haversham Tavern sauce. I request one sans cheese (an aversion) and it’s super tasty. For my invisible companion, I order the baked stuffed shrimp, a nostalgic favorite from childhood dinners out. For sides, mashed potatoes (a must), and a salad. The entree arrives piping hot in a dish straight from the oven on a large white plate alongside the creamiest mashed potatoes. Each bite of everything is buttery, rich, and flavorful.

Doing my due diligence, I ask if there are any desserts that should be represented in this article, to which Landen Gore, general manager, replies: cinnamon dippers. A short while later, he ceremoniously presents this elaborate treat to the oohs and ahhs of folks at nearby tables. Beneath a thick layer of whipped cream, drizzled in a plaid of criss-crossing lines of raspberry, caramel, and chocolate syrups, is a large flat circle of fried dough that has been dusted in cinnamon and sugar, cut into triangles pizza-style, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the center. It’s like a plate of nachos concocted by Buddy the Elf.

I leave with a large handled brown bag, heavy with containers of my leftovers. The entire experience has been a delight, and everything reheats wonderfully later that evening for dinner. Except for the ice cream, which I had to enjoy on the spot, for transport purposes, of course.

 

The Haversham Tavern

336 Post Road, Westerly

322-1717 • TheHaversham.com

 

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